But the folks behind The Hungry Monkey (THM) know better. They brought a similar revival to two other sleepy parts of the town - Defence Colony and Lodhi Colony markets - with their previous, successful ventures Red Monkey resto-pub and Ploof deli, respectively.
Ask Abhishek Patnaik, one of the (visible) partners of the company, about the obsession with the primate in particular and he says it's just a quirky title that has stayed with them (of course, it helped that their first venture, Red Monkey, kicked-off pretty well).
The restaurant is spread across three levels and corresponds to its tagline: Eat, Drink, Play. The first level (Eat) is an industrial-inspired space with its bare brick walls, retro robots and mini table fan as installations, a stone bench with the quote 'The universe is made up of stories, not atoms" etched upon it, and bare light bulbs. This is also the 'family restaurant' space so if you were to walk-in with a toddler, they will help you with a high-chair. The second level (Drink) is an elegant cocktail bar serving classic and signature cocktails and small plates from the tapas menu. The top level (Play) is possibly the best feature of the restaurant with an open terrace adorned with a canopy of ferns, creepers, and potted plants, and tables overlooking the Deer Park. It is at this level you realise that this is indeed a great location for a restaurant, away from blaring music of an adjacent restaurant (here's looking at you HKV) or the traffic noise.
While THM has a good selection of wines and liquor, both from overseas and domestic, the wise choice here is to go for their ingenious cocktails. Sample the robust and aromatic Manhattan 'smoked' cocktail - which is basically bourbon poured into a whiskey glass that's smoked with a hickory charcoal. And it tastes divine!
The kitchen at THM is helmed by the young but immensely gifted chef Noah Barnes, who dishes out contemporary global cuisine with French influences - typically called Californian Cuisine. First to arrive is an elegantly plated roasted beetroot tartare topped-off with mascarparone and pine nuts. The creamy and salty tang of mascarparone pairs well with the sweetness of the beets and the pine nuts deliver the much-required crunch to the dish.
Another great appetiser to go for at THM is the smoked Atlantic salmon carpaccio. The salmon, sliced thin as paper, comes with a sprinkling of Mediterranean herbs that subtly heighten the delicate flavours. The cucumber and dill with sour cream and mustard salad that comes with the dish, balances the saltiness of the salmon. The potted chicken liver pate on a toast, plated with prune and onion confit is flavourful, albeit for a seasoned palate.
For mains, the baked fillet of sole served on a bed of saffron-infused couscous, shines the most. While the fillet is done just right, the best bit about the dish is its buttery sauce, with the right amount of acidity and sweetness rendered from the American lemon.
As we get to the end of the meal, we have to speak above the din as most of the tables have now been occupied and the kitchen is working on full swing. While running a restaurant is no monkey business, The Hungry Monkey sure knows what it's doing.
Rating: Food - 3.5; Service - 3.5, Decor - 3.5
Meal for two: Rs2000 (without alcohol)
Address: B 6/6, DDA Market, Opposite Deer Park, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi
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