It's sad because it is probably one of the most beautiful parts of Ladakh with numerous glaciers and has one of the most scenic mountain passes; Pensi La (4400m). Describing riding/driving on these roads to be a nightmare would be an understatement and that's exactly why this is one of the least visited places.
Places of interest
There is a saying "the journey itself is the destination." This is so true especially while riding in the higher Himalayas. It more about enjoying the magnificent views, putting one's riding skills to the test and Suru & Zanskar valley did not disappoint us in either segment. The entire journey from Kargil to Padum is 230km. It doesn't sound that far however due to the road conditions it will be a 10-12 hour ride. Of the 230 km about 190 is broken dirt roads with stones and water crossings created by glacial melts. If driving or riding down, it's best to break the journey at Rangdum and cover the journey over 2 days.
The road is well paved till Sankoo about 38km from Kargil. After this come all the potholes. 24km from Sankoo is Panikhar, from where you will get the first sight of high mountains and glaciers. These are the mighty Nun & Kun peaks.
Another 24 kms on you reach Parakchik. The valley opens up as the Suru riverbed gets wider. Rangdum, the next village is another 34 km. Riding on this stretch is horrible. There are a couple of glacial melt water crossings which are fun. The downside is that the road flattens out and it's filled with stones. One is constantly at a speed of 15-25 and bouncing all over the place. There are a few home stays and cafe's in Rangdum where one can break for lunch or spend the night. Home stays are in traditional Ladakhi houses with compost toilets. Prices are about 300 per person which covers room rent, dinner and breakfast. Evening can be spent visiting the Rangdum Gompa and later watching cattle graze.
After Rangdum is where the raw beauty begins. For another 10-15 kms after Rangdum village the road continues to be filled with stones and is just harrowing to ride on. After this stretch you start climbing up Penzi La, the highest point on the Kargil Padum road. This is the only mountain pass in the valley but it's definitely one of the most beautiful mountain passes one can ride on. Glaciers and snow capped mountains, a lush green valley below fading into different shades of brown and mountains topped with some snow. Breathtaking to say the least! Pensi la provides a fantastic view of the Drang Drung Glacier and near the pass itself there is a lake at its serene best which can make for a great camping site if one is brave enough to weather the cold!
The road then winds down Pensi la and flattens out for another 70km passing through picturesque villages and fields of green peas and wheat. Again this stretch is harrowing as its stones all over. About 10km before Padum, you will see the best sight of Zanskar - TARMAC! And ahhh what a relief for sore bottoms. En route to Padum, about 40 km from Pensi La is the tiny hamlet of Abran. There is small Dhabba where one can have a very basic breakfast and the only place between Rangdum and Padum where one can get any food. The owner also does home stays. We stayed here on our way back from Padum.
Some other places which could be visited:
Rangdum Gompa - Just 6 km from Rangdum village
Pibiting monastery - 2km from Padum, the monastery stands high in the centre of the village.
Karsha monastery - located 14km from Padum, this is the largest monastery in Zanskar
Stongdey -located 18km from Padum, the monastery lies on a cliff. Breathtaking views of the valley from Stongdey village.
Zangla palace - located 35 from Padum, until two decades Zangla was ruled by a titular king. Now the palace is in ruins.
Food
Food in this region is very simple and basic. Like the rest of Ladakh, maggi is a favourite when it gets cold. Padum caters to the regular backpacker/European & Indian tourist menu. Home stays provide local cuisine, mostly rice with some vegetables. Try the Ladakhi chai or namkeen chai. The salt in the tea helps clean the body of all the dust inhaled in this harsh yet stunning landscape.
Climate
Zanskar is a cold desert. Winter time the roads are closed and the only access to the valley is via the Chaddar trek where one treks on the frozen Zanskar river from Padum to Leh. Best time to visit this region is mid June to early September. Ladakh receives minimal rainfall, however in the recent years it tends to rain a little in the August. Days can be scorching hot and nights can be freezing cold. Be sure to carry thermals and sunscreen as the sun can be extremely harsh. Ladakh is also very dusty so it's important to have something to cover your mouth and nose.
Where to stay
Sankoo, Parakchik,Panikhar, Rangdum and Padum all have J&K tourism bungalows. Home stays are availabe in Rangdum & Abran. Padum has several guest houses and hotels catering to every budget.
How to get there
By road
Kargil is the gateway to Zanskar. There are local J&K State Road Transport busses which ply from Leh/Srinagar to Kargil. From Kargil one can take the local J&K SRTC bus, take a shared taxi or hire a private cab to get to Padum, the capital of Zanskar. Due to the bad road conditions taxi's charge a whooping 14000/- one way. Its best to do this journey in one's own vehicle or to hire a private cab as then one can stop wherever and whenever to enjoy the beauty of this valley. BRO(border roads organisation) is now making a road connecting Padum to Leh and Darcha in Himachal Pradesh.
Zanskar is secluded and it's probably best that way. The roads are a nightmare and it does take a toll on the mind and body but at the end of the day it's all worth it! The Valley here is very unique as it is a nice mix of Ladakh and Kashmir ! Unlike in eastern Ladakh where its more barren and in Kashmir where there is greenery, here there are barren mountains with a good mix of greenery around which is easy on the eyes! You will even see greenery on Pensi La top which is rare for a mountain pass in Ladakh.
(Source: Godwin D Cruz, www.terrainspotter.com)
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