Linen always conjures up visions of cool summer shirts and trousers. Till recently, it was difficult to think of the fabric in any other season or silhouette. Then Mumbai-based designer Anavila Misra started making linen saris and changed the entire vocabulary of the textile.
Coaxing a fabric into a design that is alien to it isn't very easy. But creative minds in textile and fashion design are now coming up with some interesting results. Rahul Mishra, for instance, has turned the high fashion tables in Milan by creating wool so thin that it can be worn in summer, even embellishing it with zardozi and tie-and-dye designs. Then there is the Goa based British designer Alastair Blair who is fashioning tops and shirts out of the gossamer-light Chan deri, for FabIndia. A large chunk of these experiments has to do with being smart with textile usage. When Anavila set out to make linen saris, she had run into many problems. How do you turn linen into a fluid sari fabric that can drape the female form? How do you ensure that it doesn't crush easily as it normally does?
"Weaving it tightly could have helped, but since linen yarn is sticky it would have made the fabric heavy, compromising its appeal as summer wear," says Anavila, a NIFT graduate who has been working for years with natural fabrics and weavers from tribal India. She solved the problem by increasing the spacing in the loom setup so that the fabric could be given a dif ferent texture. Her debut collection of linen saris, priced Rs 8,000 onwards, be came the toast of the Mumbai Lakme Fashion Week, in March. Rahul Mishra is known for his off beat thinking in a field where most stick to the tried and tested. Not for him the sequins, crystals and bridal excesses.
His bold effort at redefining r wool won him this year's International Woolmark , Prize, the first Indian to do so. Rahul set out to make wool wearable in the tropics. "Only 50 per cent of e the world experiences a harsh winter and I wanted n to make wool trans-seasonal," says Rahul, who approached the weavers of Chanderi in Madhya s Pradesh to weave a special blend for him. Chanderi silk is woven by combining a silk warp with a cotton a weft and Rahul tweaked the technique by using a Merino wool weft on a silk warp.
The result was a fabric as thin as jersey, which r looked like linen or cotton. He employed crafts , men from Kolkata to do zardozi on dresses and l jackets made with this special wool blend. His d collection will soon be selling from the world's g top fashion stores, like Harvey Nichols, 10 Corso Como and Colette.
"These youngsters are touch-and-feel designers who start their work with the first metre of the yarn," says Ritu Kumar, one of the seniormost members of India's design fraternity. The upshot of these experiments, she adds, is that they get young patrons interested in hand-spun fabrics. "It bridges the gap between style and tradition," says Kumar, who has blended tussar and georgette to create a limp version of the silk that is ideal for saris.
A lot of popular brands -known for their handmade fabrics and clothes -have adapted a quintessential Indian textile to create Western silhouettes. British designer Blair believes that ethnic textiles can succeed in high-street fashion.
"All you need to do is to adapt and bring the focus back on hand-woven textiles," he says. For example, he has double stitched sleeves to add to the strength of the delicate Chanderi.
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/followceleb.cms?alias=Designer,Anavila Misra,Alastair Blair,Milan,Harvey Nichols
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