Decor
Malwani Naka, though open for a year, is still unknown outside this area. It's a spotlessly clean eatery on two floors with simple laminated tables and steel padded chairs - no fuss, no frills, no air conditioning. However the fans make it quite bearable even in the heat of the Pune summer. It was started by two young IT professionals with no hospitality background. Avdhoot Kubal and Amol Kiran are from Vengurla and Ratnagiri respectively and out of a desperate need to provide coastal sea food at affordable prices, started this modest eatery.
Food
On your first visit, it is advisable to order a thali - fish, chicken or mutton. The vegetarian offerings on the menu are purely to appease the odd vegetarian palate. Don't expect lightning veg fare. The fish thali comes with a fried fish - we ordered saundala, a less 'fishy' version of bangda (mackerel), fried beautifully crisp: a tongue tickling surmai pickle, prawn sukat kanda- dry prawn relish (not for the faint hearted) and a bangda coconut curry. Along with this you can have a choice of wade (a coastal kind of puri made from atta, rice flour and jowar grains), chappati, rice bhaakri or ghavna (a soft rice dosa). All thalis come with the most delicious solkadi. The chicken thali came with a dry masala chicken, a chicken gassi and so on and with this the wade went extremely well. On the side we ordered a plate of tisrya, I found the masala a little overpowering for clams; and fried bombil which was outstanding. We also ordered patra - paplet steamed with green chutney in banana leaves. The quality of the sea food was exceptional and the prices quite unbelievable.
There is no fishy smell or any hint that this is an eatery specialising in seafood. In
season they also serve tarlee, small white bait which can be eaten whole, mandli and crab. On my next visit I will try the mori (shark) which is traditionally made with a dark browned onion mutton type of masala. Interestingly, Malvani gassi or gravy is made by frying the masalas in oil along with dry and fresh grated coconut which is then ground to a paste before water is added. The result is a very tasty 'curry' but heavier than the Goan equivalent which is made with coconut milk. Those who don't live in Kothrud may find Malwani Naka a trek but I assure you it is well worth it.
Plus & minus: Very fresh sea food...... the distance
Malwani Naka: Opposite Thorat Udyan, Next to Shivaji Statue, Karve Road, Kothrud, Pune
Price for two: `400
Timings: Lunch: 11.30 am-3.30 pm; Dinner: 7.30-10.30 pm
Rating
Food: 3.5
Service: 3.5
Decor: 3
Must try: Fish pickle, fish fry (especially bombil and saundala)
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