Restaurant review: Charminar (Authentic Hyderabadi)

Months ago, friends told me about this 'awesome' place where the biryani was authentic Hyderabadi. I've been meaning to go there ever since, and now, I'm glad that I finally made it.

Decor
"Charminar is good for the food. Don't go by the decor, ambience and all — nothing great," my foodie friend had prepared me on what to expect. He did not warn me about the stairs, though. Good to climb up and build an appetite, I thought as I walked through its doorway and found myself in this rather large space. It had a carved wooden screen, high backed golden and brown upholstered chairs, with fairly large tables. I chose one that overlooked the road below because of its natural light.

Food
When Vidhya set up Charminar, she decided she was going to serve healthy, nutritious food that was authentic and tasty, without the overdose of oil or chillies. It was a niche she wanted filled. Of course, I was overjoyed with those two words — healthy and nutritious — happily digging into my delicious apollo fish. It's not maida-drenched and fried, but is coated with a mix of oats and cornflour before it's fried. Its vegetarian counterpart, called majestic baby corn, is nice too. I then ordered the sholay murgh. It has that melt-in-the-mouth quality, but the chef went a little overboard with his cardamom powder. But, the piece on my plate remained uneaten when I saw a cloud arriving on a plate. "I'd asked for reshmi kababs, not clouds," I said, quite amused. Seeing my pleasure, Vidhya said, "We pour beaten egg white over the chicken pieces and put it all into the tandoor." I then tried some paneer biryani. And I must say, it's wonderful with the mirchi ka saalan. Each grain of rice is separate, beautifully cooked, yet distinct. Dessert, qubani ka meetha — steamed apricots — with ice cream, not overpoweringly sweet, is the perfect ending to a perfect meal.

Plus and minus
The food is good, some dishes better than the others. Service is good too, with the waiters knowing the menu well. Charminar could do with some revamped interiors.

Times Food Guide

Charminar: 209, 1st floor, Avvai Shanmugam Salai (Lloyds road), opposite Pazhamudhir Nilayam, Chennai

Rating: Food 3.50 Service: 3.50 Decor: 2.50

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