It's not longer the plain-Jane cotton garment to support your saree. In the last few seasons, Indian designers have experimented with the traditional underskirt — adding sequins, embroidering it and even allowing a little peeka-boo.
Often designed and worn in contrast with the sari, just like the blouse the petticoat now demands more attention. Varun Bahl's shimmering black and silver sequenced skirt and Masaba's bright citrus range under sheer sarees are testimony.
And, if your aunts frown on your new look, point them to tradition. Stylist Nisha Kundnani says the petticoat has, across cultures, been worn as an outer garment. While in Tamil Nadu, it is an essential component of the pavada davani (half-sari), the Roman Catholics in India have always worn beautiful petticoats in delicate fabrics, with crochet detailing.
"Sometimes, their old rose printed petticoats are more beautiful than the saree itself," she adds.
Start timid, do a Sridevi
If you are easing into the trend, don't stray too far from what you are comfortable with. Go with the look Sridevi sported at the Delhi Couture Week 2012 — a white Sabyasachi saree over an embroidered black petticoat. Pairing the look with a black, embroidered, blouse ensured that although experimental, the look wasn't out-of-the-box. This works best for a formal evening.
Colour them right
If that evening went off well, and, you are in the mood to try some more, place your faith in looks by designers like Manish Malhotra and Masaba. Stylist Nitasha Gaurav says that a classic Malhotra look would be to drape your sheer sari over a sequined metallic petticoat, which gives them a glamorous twinkle. The look is perfect for cocktail parties. If sequins aren't your thing, get your hands on a printed petticoat, ala Kalki Koechlin. She wore a leopardprint petticoat under a white Sabyasachi Saree to Cannes in 2012. "You can wear the petticoat like you do the blouse," suggests Gaurav. "Mix and match it with the outfit.
Else, you can match the print of the petticoat to that of the blouse or third, wear it in contrast with the saree." Along with Bahl's blingy, sequined petticoats, draw inspiration from Masaba's collection where a bright yellow petticoat beautifully brings out the neon-pink of the net sari it dances under. Add a playful ruffle edging in a contrasting colour to the hem of the petticoat and let it peek from under the sari.
The half-sari
This look is gaining popularity, thanks to Deepika Padukone's wardrobe in Chennai Express. A traditional, south Indian look, you can make it your own by getting a petticoat in non-traditional fabrics like mashroo (woven with silk and cotton threads, it has a satiny feel). Get one with a thick border to make it look less like an underskirt. Pair it with a longer blouse and drape the halfsari over it.
Remember...
"It's a tricky trend," warns Kundanai. "Too much experimentation will destroy the identity of the garment." Here's how to ensure that you are doing it right:
- When wearing sheer sarees, remember the petticoat must have a hook to fasten it. The old-fashioned knotted draw-string look clumsy and ungainly
- A slim silhouette works better than a wide one when the petticoat is worn to show
- If you want the petticoat to be the focus, avoid a heavily embellished blouse
- The look works best on curvaceous women or women with average build. Avoid it if you're too thin or obese
- Underplay the footwear so it complements the ensemble
- The embellished peepthrough petticoats work best for contemporary saris, not traditional ones
- The look should be bold, but safe. Simplicity and grace win hands down
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