Hotel Grant House falls in that category of Mumbai eateries where the menu is just as interesting as the establishment's history.
Their hit-with-patrons masala omelette (Rs 25; single anda) is probably an ode to the time its owner Laxman Varma — then just an errand boy — served tea, omelette and batata wada to the local constabulary and police officers. His eye for detail (he used a tea cosy) caught the eye of Bombay deputy commissioner of police, Special Branch, Jimmy Nagarwala, who was famous as the Special Investigation Officer in the Mahatma Gandhi murder trial, and encouraged the young Laxman.
In 1950, he was allowed to set up a tin shed within the compound where Haj House now stands, and was once home to Sir Robert Grant, who became the Governor of Bombay in 1834. Laxman moved to the building next door in 1996, and named his eatery Grant House Hotel.
It's seen everyone from Nathuram Godse, George Fernandes, freedom fighters, prisoners and politicians (including Raj and Uddhav Thackeray) lunch here, say Laxman's sons Shekhar and Shreedhar, who are now in charge of operations.
While their kheema pav (Rs 80) is legendary, the desi chicken-rice bhakri meal served on Wednesdays and Fridays has its fans too. The secret lies in the masalas, the brothers tell you, all of which are prepared by the siblings themselves in order to safeguard the recipes. "Our father mastered the preparations after years of trial and error and gathering feedback from customers," shares Shekhar, who together with Shreedhar personally oversees the purchase of vegetable and seafood supplies. "We don't trust middle men," he says simply, reflecting a strong old-school ethic. On a busy weekday afternoon, the modest split-level eatery caters to over 100 guests.
Most of them end up ordering the seafood pulao (Rs 175) — fragrant, fluffy and with bits of crab, prawn and mussels in every bite — and bheja masala (Rs 90) — a simple but effective pepper and salt preparation far removed from the oil-doused version at other restaurants.
And then there are those dishes that carry a note of innovation. The regular surmai fry gets a lacing of tangy masala in their chutney surmai fry (Rs 200-Rs 300) — fresh slice of fish coated with their signature green chutney. But if you ask Shreedhar for a recommendation, he'll insist you try the bheja-kheema mixture (Rs 160) — brain and mutton finely minced. "You hear of the kheema-kaleji (liver) combination, but this is a novel mix," he says. Although the Laxmans say they are blessed to have famous guests and old-time patrons continue to troop in, the most satisfying experience is to hear a guest tell them, eating at Grant feels like a meal at home.
Off the menu
The Kalva Masala (Rs 150) is an oyster preparation that's pricey and not always available but ask for it the next time you are there, and you might just get lucky. The fiery Andhra chicken is prepared on advance notice.
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