The Chinese have been doing it since they first discovered tea, and it's the current favourite among chefs across the world as they bring out its versatile flavours to the plate
For the culinary world, recession may have been a small blessing, as it brought into focus things lying overhead, in kitchen cabinets, like tea. Whether pastry chefs led the way or not, is debatable, but they surely made us comfortable with the idea of having tea out of the cup and onto our plates. Its subtle and aromatic notes made its way into breads and cakes. Tea infused chocolates and chocolate-based desserts, puddings and cream pairings were received well even by conservative palates. And while the Chinese are known to be cooking with tea for centuries, world over (India included!) chai is now a hot ingredient among chefs in their spice blends and marinades, and is being favoured for smoking and stewing meats and vegetables. As it comes in so many forms, it lends itself in many ways, says celebrity chef Ajay Chopra.
Local tadka
In north Indian homes, tea is often added to Punjabi chole for colour. "The typical chole dishes at dhabas, and even homes, are cooked with tea for that lovely brown colour," says Chef Sandeep Kalia. Tea is tied in a muslin cloth and added when boiling chole. This method apparently came about as an alternative, Chef Chopra tells us. "Originally, dry amla was added to get that black colour and a tangy flavour. However, in times of unavailability, aamchur and tea bags were substituted," and perhaps is now more a norm that the original ingredients.
Perfect for a detox menu
Tea, as an ingredient, has a great USP for today's health conscious foodies. "Being a natural diuretic and rich in anti-oxidants, it works well for a detox menu," says chef Zubin D'Souza. However, if you are using tea in your food, go light on the masala. He recommends trying tea-flavoured broth for fish, "Mild fish like Basa, or even pomfret, go well with it." You can try it with whatever tea you have at home.
Chef Vernon Coelho says one could use a milder tea — like Jasmine tea, to cook rice. "While it lends a nice and mild flavour, it won't give too much colour." A mild vegetable or prawn curry would go well with tea flavoured rice. However, choose your rice wisely. Basmati has a strong flavour of its own, Surti kolum will work well, as it doesn't have a strong flavour of its own.
For effect
Tea could be your secret ingredient to bring about unique taste or even for visual effect. "Like the Chinese marble eggs," says Chef Coelho. "Lightly crack the shells of boiled eggs all over with the back of a spoon (do not remove shells) and let the eggs steep in a hot, strong tea concoction for a five hours or more." You could add spices like star anise and cinnamon in the concoction for some flavour, if you like.
You could also create a tea jelly for topping your sweet and savoury treats. "Infuse cinnamon, red chilly and honey with tea, and you have a delicious tea jelly for toppings," shares Chef D'Souza. He teamed this jelly with grilled paneer.
Scene abroad
Chefs in San Francisco and Napa Valley in California use tea for many of their signature dishes. Napa Valley's Chef Perry Hoffman's tea-smoked duck applies a simple table-top smoker, perforated pan, loose tea leaves and six to eight minutes of smoking. He also likes steeping light black tea and poaching eggs, especially if they are from quails. Like the Chinese marble eggs, they not only soaks up the tea's colour, but also its aroma and spice.
Chef Vincent Pouessel works with an organic green tea mixture of lemon citrus, lemon grass and lemon myrtle by processing, powdering and then spicing the concoction to create a delicate coating for tuna loins. He is known to use tea for its capacity to add spice and bring a smoky, woody, flavourful taste to a dish. When smoking a duck, he explains that most chefs grow frustrated when the wood chimney taste isn't retained. With tea, this is not a problem. Tea retains the smoky essence that chefs crave, making it an exceptionally important ingredient in both French and Asian cooking.
Guidelines
Chefs who have experimented with tea in cooking caution against over-steeping. You don't want too bitter tea or overpower the flavour of the main ingredients. And never cook with used tea. The secret is to start simple. Try simple flavoured teas first.
So folks, think outside the cup; try cooking with tea.
Things you can try with tea
Tea sauce
A multipurpose sauce made by tea, chives, ginger, honey, soy sauce and lemon juice. Could be used with heavier meats like game, duck and beef
Tea marinade
Concoction of tea, garlic, clove and brown sugar
Tea in dessert
A sticky toffee pudding of rich fruit sponge covered with a toffee sauce infused with the light floral flavours of Earl Grey
Tea for smoking the fish
Heat together a mixture of rice, brown sugar and Jasmine or Chamomile leaves, so that aroma is infused in fish.
Tea for cocktails
Earl Grey-infused bourbon whiskey gives the Earl of Manhattan cocktail a winningly complex flavour
(Recommendations by celebrity chef Ajay Chopra)
saadia.dhailey@timesgroup.com
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