Those who go off the beaten track, write for us. The unusual suspects Northern Italy is underrated as a tourist trail. You will be charmed by its picturesque villages, cobbled lanes and quaint piazzas.
Mediterranean coasts and Michelangelo's works are the first images that pop into your head when you think of Italy. But give the north a chance and it's bound to give stiff competition to its more touristy brethren down south. Gondola rides and Roman piazzaz are passe; so throw away your old itinerary and hit the trail of the lesser known Italy to get floored the way I was.
Trieste
Trieste, which lies towards the end of a narrow strip of land between the Adriatic Sea and Italy's border with Slovenia, was the first place I visited. A prosperous seaport of yesteryears and a major shipping centre today, Trieste is at the head of the Gulf of Trieste and makes for a pretty picture. As I walked along the sea front dotted with hotels and restaurants, I stumbled into the typical city square characteristic of Italy. Dominated by colossal buildings on three sides and complete with a heavily sculpted fountain in the centre, the square is the throbbing heart of Trieste. From pizzerias to beer joints and street musicians, the quarter has all the elements of a city that loves to holiday.
What interested me more was the fact that at one point, Trieste had been a major hub of music and literature. I was overjoyed to see a little pink building being pointed out as the former home of one of my favourite writers, James Joyce. We crossed Trieste for a lunch stop at Muggia, a picturesque village at the extreme south-east where Italy shares the border with Slovenia. After a typically long Italian lunch marked with wine and banter, I headed back to Trieste, and watched the city square get ready for the night in its lit-up glory.
Bolzano
I had been promised a slice of Germany in Italy, and I found that in the next town we hit. Bolzano, the capital of the province of South Tyrol, still reflects its Austrian and German influences that it inherited when Italy took over the province that was originally Austrian territory. Upon reaching Bolzano, I first paid my respects to Otzi, the very well preserved, over 5,000 year-old old prehistoric ice man that is on display at the South Tyrol Museum of Archeaology.
I strolled around the medieval city centre with its Gothic and Romanesque churches and down the mile-long street, Lauben, adorned with medieval arcades that now houses high street shops. It didn't take long to smell and unearth the truth behind what made this city special. Right from the special statute that protects the rights of the German minority here to the typical German wheat beer served with traditional Italian food and the bilingual signage across the city, Bolzano is the perfect example of inter-cultural harmony. Before leaving, I indulged in a meal at a trattoria, the informal, family-style Italian eating establishment I love, where there are no printed menus — for the local food and the wine is served from decanters and not bottles!
Trento
I headed to Trento, nestled in the Adige River Valley, and popular for its excellent quality of life. I headed there mainly to see my first castle on this trip. The Castello del Buonconsiglio originated from a fortified building erected in the 13th century next to the city's walls. According to legend, it was connected by a secret tunnel to the city's cathedral which was used by princes and bishops to move unseen between them. I ambled through the fortified walls, and was far more bowled over by its art. I walked down a flight of steps to discover the castle's masterpiece, the Cortile dei Leoni. Girolamo Romanino frescoed, among others, the loggia in the Cortile dei Leoni or the Lions' Court with typical Renaissance themes. I peered at the multiple arches embellished with mythological and ancient Roman episodes along biblical ones and left the castle amazed at this burst of colour inside a rather monochromatic monument.
Ferrara
My final stop was Ferrara that people mistake to be the home town of the Ferrari! A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Castle Estense stands tall. The Palazzo dei Diamanti or the Palace of Diamonds, with its facade of beautifully cut stone blocks shaped like diamonds stood out. I walked down its cobbled lanes and speculated over its quiet atmosphere. At night, the city transformed from a shy bride to a showstopper. Youngsters poured out in animated groups, mothers stepped out with prams and old couples readied for their evening out. Ferrara had a lively vibe. As strangers flashed warm smiles, I realised the decision to stick to the lesser known trail had stood in good faith.
Getting there
There are direct flights to Milan in North Italy where you can hire a car
Best time to go
Summer is a good time but Italy can get hot and crowded. September to December is a great time too.
leisuremirror@indiatimes.com
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