In most Indian cuisines, the secret lies in the masala. Add that to the freshest catch of the sea, and you have yourself a scrumptious meal with robust flavours and a fiery temperament. While textures and spice notes vary vastly from region to region, each community too, blends in their own technique and ingredients to give it their distinguished touch. Three such communities give us a taste of their traditional masalas, easy enough to try and delightful enough to bottle.
East Indian masala
Known for their bottled masalas, East Indians are known to be guarded about their traditional methods and ingredients making them difficult to source. Quite often, women bottle and sell home-made masalas, almost never over the counter, to those who don't have the time. These go through a long arduous process of grinding and roasting before being powdered and preserved. This is an easier sample.
Anthony Maroo, Food enthusiast and trainee chef
Ingredients
75 gms Black peppercorns
35 gms Green cardamoms
75 gms Taj (ceylon cinnamon)
25 gms Cloves
15 gms Black cardamoms
15 gms Nagkesar (casia buds)
15 gms Shahi jeera (black cumin)
15 gms Whole asafoetida (hing)
1 kg Dried red chillies
250 gms Coriander seeds
25 gms Whole turmeric
15 gms Mace
1 no Nutmeg
15 gms Maipatri (Mugwort)
15 gms Star anise
13 gms Sichuan pepper
15 gms Indian bay leaf
75 gms Cumin seeds
25 gms Mustard seeds
75 gms Poppy seeds
75 gms Sesame seeds
14 gms Fennel seeds
Preparation
Saute the ingredients either individually in little oil or dry roast them over medium heat. Once heated, they will release intense aromas and flavour. Grind this to a fine mix. Be sure to crush larger pieces of asafoetida, turmeric and nutmeg into smaller bits before roasting. Cool the mixture and store in air-tight bottles. Add to any vegetarian or non-vegetarian curry preparation for best results.
Goan
The flavours of Goa are characterised by a pungent use of locally made Goan vinegar and soaked red chillies. Sour and spice is their winning combination, in addition to a generous use of coconut. These masalas can be added to any sea food or meat preparation in addition to a variety of vegetables for vegetarian options. If using dry, marinate the meat or fish and simply grill.
Jacinta Frenandes, Guest chef Renaissance hotel
Cafreal masala
Ingredients
1 bunch Green coriander
1 bunch Mint leaves
100 gms Ginger garlic paste
50 gms Green chillies
1 Capsicum
50 gms Cloves/Cumin/Fennel /Dry coriander /Turmeric
1 spoon salt and sugar
Preparation
Grind the ingredients with a few spoons of Goan vinegar and add to curries.
Rechaedo masala
Ingredients
100 gms Red chilli
50 gms Ginger garlic paste
50 gms Cumin
10gms Black pepper
10gms Cloves
5 gms Cinnamon
½ cup Toddy vinegar
2 tbsp Tamarind paste
1 Onion, fried crisp
1 tbsp salt
1 tbsp sugar
Preparation
Soak all the dry spices in toddy vinegar for a few hours. Grind this in a mixture with chopped fried onions. Add tamarind pulp, salt and sugar. Mix this well and add to vegetarian or nonvegetarian curries or marinade meat, fish and grill.
Mangalorean
The bafat masala exclusively uses Kashmiri red chillies known for their deep red colouring, giving curries their typical colour. Don't be alarmed with quantities since the flavour is milder. The powder can be stored in an air-tight container for up to two months. These can be used for meat, fish or any number of vegetarian dishes.
Anita D' Souza, homemaker
Ingredients
500 gms Kashmiri red chillies
100 gms Dry red chillies
10 tbsps Coriander seeds
5 tbsps Cumin seeds
1 tbsp Cloves
3 - 2 Pieces of cinnamon
2 tbsps Peppercorns
2 tbsp Black mustard seeds
1½ tbsp Turmeric powder
Preparation
Heat a heavy-bottomed pan or griddle on medium heat. Put in the chillies (both kinds) and roast for two to three minutes, stirring constantly. Once roasted, move them off the flame. Now, add all the other ingredients other than turmeric powder, and roast for four to five minutes, stirring continously. As the spices become aromatic, take them off the flame and mix with the rest in a large bowl. Grind them roughly in batches and mix well. Put these in a dry air-tight container and store in a cool place.
Divashri.Sinha @timesgroup.com
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