Chikan is among India's couture
Lucknow is about chikan and chikan is about Lucknow," declared designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla in an interview to LT some time ago. Even as we see cheap machine embroidered rip-offs of the original hand embroidered craft flood the market, chikan continues to fascinate those who have an eye for detail. "It's those delicate patterns adorning the fabric that make chikan so timeless. People the world over love, wear and admire our chikan ensembles just as we love the art form. The beauty and appeal of chikankari is simply unbeatable," says Abu Jani. "We all love everything that's beautiful, and chikan embroidery is perhaps the best form of hand embroidery. That explains our love and passion for it," adds Sandeep.
From the Bachchan parivar, Dimple Kapadia, Mukesh and Nita Ambani to international celebrities like Maggie Smith, Sophie Marceau and Sarah Brown - they have all proven over and over again that the art form remains unaffected by the vagaries of trends, as they opt for chikan ensembles for red carpet events.
In fact, Hollywood actor Dame Judi Dench has been wearing Abu-Sandeep designed chikan creations for several years now at award ceremonies like the Oscars and also the BAFTA. And early this year, she was seen dressed in a pale lilac chikan embroidered ensemble for the BAFTA awards in London. Aishwarya Rai Bachchan's much anticipated presence in Cannes this year also saw her turning up in a cream chikan creation by the same designer duo.
Designer Manish Malhotra's romance with chikan is also well known and the designer swears by the craft. According to Malhotra, "I have always liked to use Indian fabrics in my creations. My dresses are voluminous, glamorous and even my gowns are very Indianised. So, it makes sense to use Indian fabrics for them. And I think chikan embroidery is very elegant and beautiful."
Designer Maheka Mirpuri, who says she is in love with the craft, adds, "Chikan is classic. It is perfect for summer because it has a very delicate feel." Other fashion designers who have worked extensively in chikan are Ritu Kumar, whose love for the art has reflected in the ensembles she has created with chikan embroidery for Femina Miss Indias, over the years. Anita Dongre is also one of the designers whose preferred embroidery is chikan. Says Dongre, "Chikan work is timeless. You can wear it for both formal and informal occasions and looks stunning." Designer Tarun Tahiliani is another designer who's popularized the art and who also can be credited with starting the machine technique of chikan embroidery. Filmmaker Muzzafar Ali and wife Meera also dabble in chikan designer wear extensivley and initiated an elegant array of gold and silver chikankari work on black for formal wear.
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