Decor
Unfinished walls, frames without pictures and wine cabinets. Dark rust dominates the colour spectrum, with the staff dressed in black. Classy, one part of my brain says, rustic, says the other, pushing me to the conclusion that this is an unusual piece of work that would have taken a lot of planning. My table overlooks the brightly lit Madras Pavilion and makes me feel almost like a secret onlooker. On the other side of my white trellised partition is the live kitchen. One could roller skate around this place. I see Chef Vikramjit Roy briskly oversee every aspect of the restaurant in his crocs.
Food
My meal begins with herbed tofu discs. Soft and pliant, the discs almost fall off my fork. I'm surprised at their texture and realize this is no ordinary tofu. It is made in-house.
The stuffed Shiitake salad is not your ordinary mushroom salad. While the mushrooms offer their chewy nutrition to the salad, its lemon grassy overtone adds a soft yet discernible personality that I cannot ignore. Adding another surprise factor to this salad is the crunchiness from soft shell crab.
Suddenly, Chef Vikramjit arrives with a tray, and sets the table for a little mushroom soup ceremony. As he pours it out of his jug, I am surrounded by the most fabulous fragrance of truffle, portobello and Shiitake. My senses are engaged; I never imagined mushroom soup could be so exotic.
Keeping my mushroom memories alive, I get truffle-scented Jasmine rice. I could eat it plain but I get into indulgence mode once again as I take a generous helping of the prawns with red kidney beans and fall in love with the combination. Hurtling into reckless adventure mode, my hand reaches for the baby corn in tomato sauce: tangy flavours, beautifully balanced.
Then comes dessert. Some green tea lemongrass cake. A bit of a let down, I think, after that fabulous meal. Just as I push the plate away, Chef plonks this little potted plant in front of me, telling me it's a gift from Pan Asian. A spear mint plant that I need to transfer into a bigger pot once I get home. And it has these brown squishy earth wormy things that creep me out. I'm wondering if I want that plant and its squishies, looking really doubtful, when Chef brings along spoons. He chucks out the mint sprig and asks us to dig in. This is actually a Plant of Mint with 70 per cent Valrhona chocolate and it's all ours.
Pluses and minuses
Don't expect food like Hakka Noodles. Pan Asian is one place where nothing is ordinary.
Pan Asian: ITC Grand Chola, 63, Mount Road, Guindy, Chennai 600032 020. Telephone: 044-22200000
Meal For Two: 4,000
Timings: 7 pm to 11.30 pm
AC: Yes
Home Delivery: No
Veg/Non-Veg: Non-Veg
Parking: Yes;
Credit Card: Yes
Liquor: Yes
Rating:
Food: 4.00
Service: 4.00
Decor: 4.50
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/followceleb.cms?alias=Restaurant,Pan Asian,food review,Food,decor
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